GSMNP FALL 2020

 The Sun and the Moon and the Stars. They have always been. And the mountain too. The mountain has always been. And the forest upon the mountain. 

The Fall 2020 trip would be a 3 night expedition to Elkmont Campground in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park (henceforth GSMNP).

The focus of this trip would be more on exploration and photography, and less on summiting high peaks for the purpose (of course) of checking them off of a list.

THE PLAN:

To arrive and set up camp on day 1 (Wednesday) and then explore around some old ruins near the back of the campground. Day 2 would be a hike from Clingman’s Dome to Andrew’s Bald (the only summit attempt of the trip). Then returning to Elkmont, an afternoon loop hike of the Little River trail, returning via Cucumber Gap and Jake’s Creek trail. On day 3 I planned to drive to Cades Cove and attempt to reproduce (from my old film days) a photo of the Primitive Methodist Church taken from about a mile up Rich Mountain Road looking back down over the valley. I would return home on Saturday.

Coco, my Assistant Trip Planner

WHAT ACTUALLY HAPPENED:

As I arrived at the entrance of the GSMNP, that magical barrier that is the southern border of the park was there waiting for me. I crossed over to the other side and experienced a temperature drop of 15 degrees almost immediately. What had been 81F was now 66F. It was a beautiful day to be in the wilderness. I traveled on and soon enough reached my destination at Elkmont Campground, B-17. 

Elkmont B-17

Elkmont at an elevation of 2150 feet is a huge campground. The largest in the GSMNP with 220 total sites, and it was full. Full as in No Vacancy.

A Brief History Lesson:

The area was first settled in the mid 1800's by homesteaders. A logging company was formed around 1905 and a railroad was built connecting Elkmont to Townsend and later extending all the way to Knoxville. In 1910 the lumber company sold fifty acres of land to the Appalachian Club. This was an affluent social club of businessmen from Knoxville. The club sold cabins to members who would travel by railcar to vacation in Elkmont.

By the mid 1920's the logging industry dried up in Elkmont and moved on to other locations. The National Park was established in 1934 but interestingly many of the Elkmont properties were exempt from imminent domain and many owners negotiated individual leases. The last lease didn't expire until 1992 and the last full time residents didn't leave until 2001.

The park service had put a plan in place to demolish all of the buildings after the leases expired. However, in 1994 Elkmont was placed on the National Register of Historic Places, and a new plan to preserve those buildings that were still in good condition was put into place. The most recent plan is to restore all remaining buildings by 2025.

Early 20th century vacation cabins in various states of restoration

Thursday morning I was up early after an excellent night of sleep in the truck camper. It was still pitch black dark at 0630 as I walked back from the bathhouse to my campsite. My thoughts were on the drive to Clingman’s Dome and the days hike to Andrew’s Bald when suddenly...BAM...I turned my right ankle on the edge of the parking pad as I walked beside the truck. I hit the ground like a sack of potatoes and fumbled around for my dropped keys in the dark. I found them and hopped up quickly, limping on one foot and telling myself (As I always do) that “It’s not too bad”, and it will “be fine”.

Of course it wasn’t “fine”. It was sore and swelling. I had no choice but to lay down on the cot in the tent and waited for the sun to come up pondering what to do next.

Eventually I boiled it down to three choices:

1) Pack up and go home.

2) Stay around the camp and rest it and see how it felt the next day and maybe salvage part of my itinerary.

3) Flip my schedule and drive to Cades Cove and try to walk Rich Mountain Road and then make a decision about the Andrew’s Bald hike tomorrow.

What was apparent was that my original plan of walking the Forney Ridge Trail to Andrew’s Bald was not going to happen on this day. The trail is noted for its ruggedness and I had experienced parts of it last November when Spencer and I had made our unsuccessful attempt to hike out to Forney Cascades. In other words, I knew what that trail had in store for me and it was now out of the question.

After a little over an hour, the sun had now come up and the throbbing pain had subsided. I still had swelling but decided to lace up the Timberlands and drive to Cades Cove. I figured Rich Mountain Road (even though gravel) would be the best surface for me to try. Also it would be another 45 minutes just to make the drive, so I figured I would reevaluate when I got there. 

Upon arriving at Cades Cove I headed immediately to the loop road and proceeded to the parking area in front of the Missionary Baptist Church and began the hike up Rich Mountain Road. To be clear, the parking is at the Missionary Baptist Church (built 1915) but the photo is of the Methodist Church (built 1902). The hike up the road (all uphill) was 1.1 miles and the ankle was stiff and sore initially but slowly warmed up and I was walking without a limp by the time I had reached the opening in the fauna where the valley below became visible from the road. 

I wasn’t able to get the quality of photo that I had hoped for. The fall colors were still presumably a week or two away down in the valley so the pictures lacked that essential trait I was seeking. Despite being a beautiful morning, the direction of the photographs were looking into the rising sun in the East and the photos seemed a little washed out by the morning light.

Rich Mountain Road, being an unimproved one-way 11 mile stretch, was busier than I thought it would be. Several cars passed by and two even stopped to share my view and take a few pictures. I had an interesting conversation with a guy from southeastern Missouri about Taum Sauk (He said he lived about 20 miles from the MO highpoint.) I mentioned that I hoped to make it out there soon (as part of a three state highpoint trip to Mississippi, Arkansas, and Missouri.)

A second car stopped and an older couple from Montana highly recommended Yellowstone National Park. I hope to make it there someday too!

The guy from Missouri asked if I was on foot and told me that he had seen a large black bear near the roadside on the drive up from the Cove. I must have just missed it, or just didn’t see it somehow during my walk. When I headed back down, I had my camera ready and hoped for a ground encounter with a black bear. Alas, it must have meandered off, because I saw nothing of interest on my way back down the road and arrived a short time later back at the church parking lot.

The best I could get of the church. Still not exactly what I was going for

A better representation of my actual view of the valley. Church is circled in Red for reference

I drove on around the loop road ( I really had no choice) and then decided to take a swing through the Cades Cove Campground. I like to look at the gear and camp set-ups people have but nothing jumped out at me. Of course I also had to make a stop in the camp store to honor our family tradition of indulging in a soft serve ice cream cone. I got my ice cream and headed back to Elkmont with my ankle now cooled off and starting to throb again.

Arriving back at my camp, I spent the afternoon not doing much but resting my ankle by sitting in my favorite camp chair under the canopy of trees reading my book and enjoying the pleasant mountain air.

And when the wind would blow, the leaves would fall like snow.

Later I would heat my dinner of hamburgers over an open fire and take a dusk walk around the campground to test the ankle once again.

I awoke the next morning, this time waiting for dawn to break before getting up so I could see where I was walking. The ankle felt much better and I made the decision to give the Forney Creek Trail and Andrew’s Bald a try.

Arriving at the trailhead at the Clingman’s Dome parking lot, I was surprised at how few people were actually there as it was nearly 0900, a rather late start for me. Parking was not an issue.

Topography: Andrews Bald from Clingman's Dome. It looks so close!

I started down the rocky rugged trail picking my way slowly. My progress was slow but eventually I made the 1.7 mile journey and arrived at the Bald.

Andrew's Bald may have been more impressive on a clearer day

There were around 20 people already there when I arrived. The morning was overcast and the views were not good. The Bald did contain some trees and other vegetation. There was high grass everywhere the trail wasn’t. I wandered off the trail to avoid the crowds and found my own area to take a rest and enjoy the scenery. Of course it was difficult to see the holes under the tall grass, and I wasted no time in stepping into one and tweaking the ankle once again.

I didn’t stay long as I don’t like the crowds and there wasn’t much to photograph. I made it back to the parking lot and things had changed dramatically. The crowds were everywhere. The lot was full and vehicles were backed up as far as the eye could see waiting for parking spaces to open up. Now this was the Clingman’s Dome I was accustomed to!

Back at the campground, after a short rest, I headed back out on foot to explore more of the ruins along the Little River Trail. Given the ankle situation and the fact that the Andrew’s Bald hike had taken a little longer than expected, I decided to forgo the nearly six mile planned loop hike and spend the afternoon just exploring around the campground ruins.

The "Troll Bridge" of Elkmont

The Troll Bridge is smaller than you might think

After a few hours of exploration, it was hot dogs over the open fire and then a tear down of the tent. After everything was packed and ready to head out the next morning, I went for another dusk walk around the campground that led to a moonlit return to B-17.

Just like the August trip to Shenandoah National Park, on my last morning I woke up to the sound of pouring rain on my canvas roof. It was 0230 and I figured it was just another one of those short mountain showers that can be so common. But it wasn't. At 0615 when I decided to finally get up, the rain was still coming down and it was still pitch dark.

There was nothing else to do so I decided to go ahead and head out. I drove the 4 miles to 441 and then over the mountain in the dark and fog and rain. Given the opportunity, I would probably not make the same decision again. But I made it, and was in Cherokee by dawn. The rain stayed with me until around Spartanburg, SC. After that things normalized and I returned home in the early afternoon without incident. 

Saw dozens of turkeys on this trip but not much other wildlife

Shenandoah National Park - Summer 2020:

I set out for a solo camping and hiking trip to the Shenandoah National Park with the goal of exploring the southern third of the park via a few key hikes and a stay at the Loft Mountain Campground.

The SNP southern tip is near Charlottesville, VA and runs 105 miles to the northern terminus at Fort Royal, about 60 miles due west of Washington DC. To enter the park there is a $30 per vehicle fee that is good for one week of reentry. This fee grants access to Skyline Drive which runs the length of the park.

The objective of the trip was to explore a new park and new campground as well as complete hikes to the summits of Turk Mountain, Blackrock Summit, Furnace Mountain, and Hightop Mountain. Hightop mountain being the highest point in the southern section of the park at 3587 feet.

Day 1 was to include arriving at the park and immediately hiking the short 2.4 mile round trip to the top of Turk Mountain and back. After the hike, I would move on to my reserved campsite at Loft Mountain.

Day 2 included the longest hike, an over 7 mile out and back trip that would take me to the top of Blackrock Summit and Furnace Mountain. 

Day 3 was a planned morning hike to the summit of Hightop Mountain before heading home.

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Exiting I-64 and entering the park on Skyline Drive, I payed my $30 at the entrance station and continued on to the parking area at the Turk Mountain trail head. Skyline Drive is essentially an extension of the Blue Ridge Parkway. South of I-64 is the Blue Ridge turning into Skyline Drive as you enter the National Park. 

It was a beautiful day and the parking area only had two vehicles occupying it. One was a cool looking yellow Subaru Baja.

The Appalachian Trail runs the distance of the park and parallels Skyline Drive, crossing back and forth multiple times as it winds it's way through the mountains. The hike to Turk Mountain begins with a .2 mile hike south on the AT before turning west onto the Turk Mountain Trail. From there it is a fairly easy .9 mile hike to the summit. 

Skyline Drive runs the high ridge through the park, so many of the hikes starting from Skyline Drive do not have a large amount of elevation gain. The hike to the 2981 ft. summit of Turk Mountain included about 600 foot of gain.

I reached the summit marker after the short hike, but quickly realized I wasn't at the true summit. When you are standing at the marker but can see higher mountain around you, then you know something isn't quite right. 

Turk Mountain Summit marker (but not really)

View of trail rising from Summit marker

So up I went to find the true highest point of the mountain. Scrambling over rocks, I soon found what seemed to be the true summit.  At the top, I was rewarded with some great views!

View from Turk Mountain Summit

Returning to the "Toyota Expedition Truck" was uneventful, and I drove the 10 or so miles to Loft Mountain Campground, the southernmost campground in SNP. 

The only thing I have to determine the quality of a campground is a direct comparison to those that I am most familiar with, the camps of the Great Smokey Mountain National Park. Loft Mountain boasted amenities such as a grill/restaurant, a camp store, and even showers. My expectations were high. Two of those three, you won't find at any GSMNP campgrounds. 

Several things jumped out at me when initially entering the campground. First, the setting was different than what I was used to. This was a mountaintop campground, not something nestled deep in a valley. There were trees, but they were small and provided little shade from above. There was no canopy to speak of like you would find in Elkmont, Smokemont, or Cades Cove. The sites were small. Many weren't level. My initial impressions were of disappointment. I could not feel the magic.

I selected my reserved site (F167) partly because it appeared to be somewhat secluded and private as best I could tell from the online pictures and camp diagram. I always look for a bit of seclusion when possible. 

Arriving at my site, it was indeed quite private. It was a "back-in site", surrounded by a thick wall of overgrown brush, with a walk back to a clearing.  At the clearing, there was no tent pad, just a dirt spot where you know you are supposed to put a tent. The fire pit was a mess, and looked like it hadn't been cleaned out in years. The provided picnic table was in bad shape and falling apart. My disappointment grew.

One bright spot to Loft Mountain was the wildlife. I noticed three large deer grazing in a nearby empty site as I pulled in. Other encounters at F167 included squirrels, chipmunks, and rabbits.

I went for an evening walk around the campground. I was hoping to see my wildlife and also wanted to check out the restaurant and showers. Although I had not been counting on it to provide any meals, I was not too surprised to find the restaurant closed with a sign stating that it would not reopen until 2021. Interesting. 

I found the campground store and the adjacent shower facilities as well. The showers were $1.75 for 5 minutes of hot water. That may seem steep for only 5 minutes of water, but to anyone that has been in camp and/or hiking for several days with no way to wash, it is a small price to pay and very worthwhile. That being said, my plan was to hold off until after my long hike on day 2 before hitting the showers.

F167 - Clearing looking back at parking spot. I must have made this walk 100 times during the 2 days

 

Unkempt Fire Pit

Lots of wildlife in the campground

Day 2 started early. I was parked at the trail head and on my way to Blackrock Summit and Furnace Mountain by 7:10. Like the previous days hike and many in the SNP, this one started out on the Appalachian Trail. You walk .5 miles south on the AT to reach Blackrock Summit and then head west toward Furnace Mountain. The early morning air was cool and delightful. There was no one else around.

The hike to Blackrock on the AT was short and enjoyable. I emerged from the forest at 3120 feet above sea level into a huge boulder field covering the summit. According to an informational sign I had seen back at the trail head, the boulders were formed in an ancient pre-historic ocean that once covered the area that is now the Appalachian mountains. Interesting.

I explored around for a few minutes and took some pictures before heading on to Furnace mountain.  From Blackrock I would travel .6 miles on the Trayfoot Mountain trail before traveling 1.7 miles on the Furnace Mountain trail before taking a spur for the last 4 tenths to the summit. At the intersection of the Trayfoot Mountain trail and the Furnace Mountain trail I found a marker showing the summit of Trayfoot Mountain to be only .2 miles up a steep and overgrown trail. 

Score! 

Bonus Summit located! 

I decided to head on to Furnace Mountain and take the short detour to the summit of Trayfoot on the way back.

The stunning boulder fields of Blackrock Summit (These are not small rocks!)

Trail through Blackrock Summit

View from Blackrock Summit

Trayfoot Summit .2 - A Bonus Summit!!!

The walk to Furnace Mountain was uneventful except that it was 1.7 miles all downhill until reaching the summit spur trail that took me to the top. This meant 1.7 miles of uphill on the way back. Remember Blackrock was at 3120 feet and the Furnace Mountain summit stands at only 2657 feet. So the trail actually dropped well below 2657 before climbing back up the summit spur trail. The summit trail was only about 4 tenths of a mile to the uninspiring top of the mountain. There were no views from the top and nothing there of note except a small clearing. The trail dropped sharply off the other side, letting you know that you were standing on the summit. 

Trail to Furnace Mountain

 Furnace Mountain summit clearing

I stayed at the summit only a short time to rest and hydrate before heading back. It was on the way back that I realized I was walking 1.7 miles of continuous elevation gain. On the way out, I hadn't even noticed the slight but continuous downhill of the trail.  It wasn't steep though, and in good time I was back at the junction with the Trayfoot Mountain trail. The trail to the summit of Trayfoot was short but this section did get steep. It was also quite overgrown, which surprised me as the Trayfoot Mountain Loop is supposedly one of the more popular hikes in the southern section of the park.

Overgrown trail to the summit of Trayfoot

At the top the summit of Trayfoot was even less impressive than that of Furnace. The trail passes right over the peak and keeps going on its' loop back to Skyline Drive. There were no views and nothing much there at all. I stopped to take a short break after the steep approach. A couple of hikers doing the loop passed by me. They were the first hikers I had seen all day. After they had walked by me continuing on the trail without pausing, I overheard the female muttering, "So I guess that was the summit?" 

Soon I picked up my gear and was ready for the final leg of my journey back to Blackrock Summit and on to the truck. But before my departure, I would meet one more individual, a giant stick bug that had attached itself to my camera. I took a photo with my phone camera before returning it to its' natural habitat. 

The unimpressive summit of Trayfoot Mountain

Returning to Blackrock summit, the area was now crowded with people who had made the short hike from Skyline Drive. I was glad I had gotten an early start and had had the place to myself that morning.

Returning to camp, I ate lunch and then headed to try out the pay showers.

My expectations of a pay shower at a primitive campground on the top of a mountain were somewhat low.  Based on my other perceptions so far of Loft Mountain Campground, I half expected some dilapidated wooden walled stall of some sort with a worn out shower head producing inadequate water pressure. 

It would be a vast understatement to simply say that my expectations were blown away. Stepping into a shower at Loft Mountain was like stepping into a shower at the Ritz Carlton. 

Unbelievable. Possibly the best part of the entire campground, and probably the best $1.75 I have spent in a long time.

An astonishingly upscale shower facility at the campground

The rest of the second day was uneventful and after dinner I was in the truck camper by 8:00 pm and falling asleep. Rain and thunder throughout the night made sleep intermittent and I pondered whether my final hike up Hightop Mountain was even going to happen. I wrestled with the decision I would have to make as to go or not if it was still raining hard in the morning.

Fortunately that decision didn't have to be made, as I awoke to only a slight drizzle. The mountain was enveloped in clouds and visibility was very low. At around 6:30 am I pulled out of Loft Mountain Campground and this time headed north on Skyline Drive into unexplored territory and the Hightop trail head. The fog was heavy and progress was slow. No one else was out. Many deer lined the roadsides grazing, including a spotted fawn who ran ahead of me on the side of the road as I approached. 

Given the conditions, I figured my photographic opportunities on this day would be limited, so when I saw a brief break in the clouds I was able to take these pictures from one of the overlooks before reaching the trail head:

As quickly as the clouds lifted, they closed again and I was at the trail head and starting the 3.4 mile round trip hike in a dense fog.

Early morning day 3 conditions

Once again the hike was on the AT.  It was 1.7 miles of mostly uphill until reaching a trail marker that was the indicator of where to leave the AT and access the summit. I was surprised that there wasn't a maintained trail to the actual summit. Only an unmaintained (and officially unmarked) trail that traveled about a hundred yards to the top of the mountain. Hightop being the highest point in the southern park should probably deserve a little more respect.

At the top there was no view given my morning conditions. On a clear day there are supposedly nice views along the trail, but I saw none of those. At the summit there were remnants of some sort of foundation that had once been there. There was nothing except these large concrete blocks to mark the apex. 

Hightop Summit

I took a short break from the hike up. Looking up into the grey skies I noticed a large spider web above me in the trees. I snapped a few pictures of it and headed back down for the final leg of my final hike of my the Shenandoah National Park trip.

My return to Skyline Drive and the "Toyota Expedition Truck" was uneventful. I proceeded north on Skyline Drive until reaching highway 33 and exited the park heading west toward Harrisonburg, VA and access to Interstate 81. 

The trip was a success in that I completed all planned hikes and even found the additional unplanned summit of Trayfoot mountain.